SHIZUOKA

After my 8AM-6PM trip to Kyoto on my third day, I hung out with other young professionals at Jesus Lifehouse Osaka (the Hillsong church at Shinsaibashi which I didn't get to on my first day). We sang, listened to a preaching, dined out together and talked with local believers. To my surprise, there were a lot of Aussies, Brits and Americans in the church. So there actually is a lot of opportunities to get involved in an English community when in Japan. An hour later, I rushed back to my hotel in Umeda to fetch my baggage, and took a taxi to Umeda Sky Building. Before boarding the bus bound for Shizuoka, I charged my phone because it was used the entire day while in Kyoto and I needed battery to keep track of where my bus was. I couldn't understand a thing the conductor said during the trip. He assumed all the passengers were Japanese. And it's a good thing my phone wasn't updated to the new iOS, otherwise I'd be lost. 

I met my student's husband at JR Shizuoka station at six the following morning, and eventually met her (and her cute dog) in person at their lovely modern Japanese home. Breakfast was elaborate- better than she had described it over Skype. I felt like I had come over for Osechii (New Year's meal). The bento box was huge and had quaint details all over it. I had neglected to take a picture of it because I was excited to eat what was in it. I documented the content of each compartment instead.

Fig 1. The infamous Natto
(fermented soybeans) 

It was my first encounter with Natto (fermented soybeans) and I loved it. Well yeah, it does smell like feet, but I try not to imagine eating parts of my body while eating it. I ate it with mustard and some soy sauce. It was really sticky- kind of like mozzarella cheese on pizza; but you had to eat this with chopsticks, so it was all the more challenging. Other foods included breaded oyster and chicken (figure 2), Edamame (mature green bean) and Gomame (black sesame) tofus (Fig 6), Tsukemono (Fig 7), and fish cakes with a herb that tasted lemony and minty at the same time (Fig 8).

Fig 2. Tempura oyster and chicken

Fig 3. Another breakfast item-
I forgot what it's called.

Fig 4. Boiled salad,

Fig 5. Miso Soup.

Fig 6. Two varieties of tofu.

Fig 7. Clockwise from top:
Pickled eggplant, cucumber and plum. 

Fig 8. Kamaboko with shiso.

Fig 9. A staple of Japanese meals
- short grained rice.

Like all Japanese meals, my breakfast came with hot tea. My appetite was sated, and I thought that would last me the entire day. But little did I know, there was more in store for my stomach.

Fig 11. The Sado master at work.

Fig 10. Japanese me.

By nine, my student took me to a tea ceremony class at a traditional Japanese home. The teacher was a Sado Master, so she's been catering to guests for more than ten years. I got to fit a kimono and while I was changing, Japanese music played in the background. I felt like Sayuri in Memoirs of a Geisha.. all I had to do now was get my face painted white and do a geisha dance. I entered the tea room with my student and the teacher verbally demonstrated how to make tea using sophisticated utensils. There were times wherein she had to rotate the cup in a certain direction before serving it to us. I wondered why all the routine in preparing tea, but I had forgotten to ask her the reason. 

We had the tea with wagashi (Japanese sweets). After eating, it was my turn to impress the Sado Master- fortunately I passed, I just don't have the jpegs to prove it. 

Fig 12. Japanese sweets to accompany the tea we drank.

We had some Kaki (persimmon) after the ceremony. I hesitated at first because I have never liked the taste of the fruit whenever my cousin bought me some from the market around my hometown. But at the same time, I might insult the lady if I refused. So I accepted them, and it was not bad at all. In fact, my perception of kaki changed; maybe because it was served cold. Lowering temperature of foods, does make food taste sweeter. I appreciated her gesture and gave her Philippine wagashi in exchange for hosting the unique experience. 

Fig 13. My student and I at Choji-ya.

My student and her husband drove me to a local wasabi museum. I saw the different ways how Japanese use the 'spicy' root- in KitKat, embedded like a chip in Nori (seaweed) sheets, incorporated into soy sauce, put into soda, and even to flavor soft serve. They challenged me to do the wasabi shower where I had to push a button afterwhich wasabi gas would diffuse from the ceiling, at a rate of what seemed to be a rapid ten meters per second. The vapor reached my eyes and before I knew it my sockets profusely swelled up in tears. I exited the room laughing at myself. I love wasabi but I'm not used to getting it in my eyes.

Next we headed to Chojiya, an old restaurant which specializes in Tororo-Jiru (wild yam soup). It was my first time to sit on the floor at a restaurant. Though I didn't get pins and needles while sitting, I was more conscious of my blouse because it wasn't long enough to cover my lower back. Still that didn't stop me from my 'annoying' ritual before eating. I spent three minutes of shooting the food before we finally dug in. 

Fig 14. Hijiki (seaweed) salad.

Fig 15. I forgot what this is.

Fig 16. Amazing starchy tororo jiru. 

Fig 17. Karaages topped with fish and shiitakes.

We literally ran back to the JR station, to catch up with the next shinkansen (bullet train) to Tokyo. FYI, all trains in Japan follow a schedule and they stick to it. If you miss a shinkansen, you'll have to wait for the next schedule, which in my case was ninety minutes later. Incidentally, the train's schedule is displayed on google maps, so you can check it up and make plans ahead of time.
I thanked my student for a wonderful gastronomic experience and hospitality then bid farewell. Tokkaido region did not disappoint one bit. I enjoyed there a lot and left with a good glimpse of Mount Fuji.

Fig 18. Snow capped mountain- something I don't get to see
everyday while riding the train.

KYOTO: OF RED LEAVES AND GOLDEN TEMPLES (3日目)

Does this photo ring a bell? 

Fig 1. Fushimi Inari at sunset.

NO? WHAT ABOUT NOW?
It may seem familiar if we bring the sun back up.

Fig 2. Fushimi Inari before sunset.

You'd recognize it if you've watched the movie Memoirs of a Geisha. The lead actress Sayuri (Ziyi Zhang) used to run through the tori's (gates) of the shrine in her childhood. This is it on the inside, right before dusk. I chose to visit here because I adore the color.. orange is my fave!

HOW ABOUT THIS? 

Fig 3. Kinkaku-ji on a cloudy day.

This is dubbed the Golden Pavillion of Japan. It's a world heritage site and I was fortunate enough to capture it with a symmetrical reflection on the water below it.

I was in town for just 8 or 9 hours and I had to meet up with my student here. I spent more than half of my time eating and talking with her. So contrary to what Kyoto is famous for, this post will not zero-in on its religious and usual tourist aspect; rather I'd like to show some of the interesting foods that I had and saw there. In no specific order, they are:

Fig 4. Tofu doughnuts at Konnamanjiya, Nishiki

Fig 5. Iidako aka baby octopii @ Nishiki.

Fig 6. Grilled Mochi @ Mochitsuki-ya, Nishiki.

Fig 7. Cakes @ Kinkaku-ji.

Fig 8. Green and Sakura Teas.

Fig 9. Matsutake mushrooms @ Nishiki,

 Fig 10. Fish eggs/roe.

Fig 11. Japanese whisky @ Nishiki.

Fig 12. Tsukemono/pickles.

Fig 13. The omnipresent Kuri (chestnut).

If I had more time, I would be running through the bamboo forest in Arashiyama, strolling down the river banks of the couples' river, taking a two hour class in Tea101 @ Ippodo, trying out Michelin restaurant after Michelin restaurant in the city, going up the Kyoto Tower and eating numerous variations of Ramen. Unfortunately, I'll need to be on a honeymoon to do all that, altogether... LOL.

Fig 14. Under a semi-canopy of red, orange and green trees in
the Fall Capital of Japan.

KUIDAORE'D @ OSAKA (2日目)

It was a chilly morning. I had woken up early to take a jog around the city but it was too cold to get out of bed. All my time planning a jogging route before the trip sadly went to waste. I had not anticipated I would be literally frozen in bed. I was cooped up in my little dark eighth floor room and I didn't know how to turn on the television. Instead I listened to this classical music playlist on my iPod to keep me in the mood. I played the 2Cellos' music on loop from the moment I boarded the plane to Osaka, to the time I arrived back in Manila. Their version of Welcome to the Jungle (as well as the rest of their debut album) must have been the soundtrack of my autumn; next time though I'll download something a little less European to complement the experience. I looked out my window and was thankful that even if I was assigned a smoking room, I didn't have to inhale even the teeniest wisp of cigarette smoke, plus the view was nice. But enough about inside the hotel. 

Fig 1. Kitsune Udon at Osaka Castle.

I caught a train to Tenmabashi to see the beautiful Osaka Castle at 9.30; that way I was able to avoid the morning rush hour. From the station, I was fascinated by the red and yellow foliage all around. It was beautiful. I passed by the NHK building on the way to the castle. An old man took me around the vicinity. He spotted lonely me camwhoring against the landscape so he volunteered to take my picture, give a history lesson about the castle and have lunch with me. We ate Kitsune Udon, which is thick noodles cooked in broth with deep fried kitsune (tofu). I was excited because I thought I would be eating fox meat that day. Kitsune, when translated in English, means fox. Nevertheless, I wasn't disappointed by its taste. After lunch, we tried to take more shots of the castle so I could properly justify the fact that a moat surrounded the structure. I guess that's the reason why people marvel at its beauty. A huge school of fish the size of a salmon, flock to one part of the river, and is entirely visible even ten meters above the water. Many websites post pictures of the castle at night to emphasize what it looks like when it's properly illuminated against a dark sky. The man continuued to talk about several eras which involved the castle being used as a fortress, but I didn't get a lot out of it because he spoke in Japanese. I didn't want to offend him, so I occasionally responded with "Hai, wakarimashita!" 

Fig 2. Osaka castle and me..

Fig 3. Sand replica of the castle.

Fig 4. Moat around the castle.                                       

We parted ways at half past one in the afternoon and I took another train to restaurant-studded Dotombori. This street is famous for the animated characters that restaurants have on the facade of their shops. There was only one sign that would confirm I was in the right place.. and that was a giant crab statue which I had seen from a food magazine before. But while doing that, I got lost several times, and so I got overwhelmingly hungry. I spotted a good takoyaki (octopus fritter ball) shop and I was dying for some. We have lots of Takoyaki stalls in the Philippines, but I know for a fact that because they come cheap, they'll never be close to the original taste. So I checked out Kukuru. It was the only sign I could read because it was written in Hiragana. I feel intimidated to try a restaurant if I can't read the name. Four ladies and a man, welcomed me very enthusiastically into their hole in the wall. Fortunately they had an English menu so I could understand what they offered, and order what I wanted. "Kore wa hitotsu onegai shimasu," I said as I pointed to a picture of eight pieces of takoyaki. It was only an hour and a half after I had lunch but in Japan, my stomach was in the mood for almost anything. The lady gestured instructions on how to eat the takoyaki, saying that i should transfer the ball to a separate plate, before drizzling mayonnaise and sprinkling katsuoboshi (smoked fish skin) on it. At first, I wasn't sure what she meant when she crossed her arms, but I kind of figured it out later. I was so starved I actually finished all eight in one sitting. I have a big appetite, I know! 

Fig 5. Bikkuri Takoyaki (JPY 1050) at Kukuru. 

I walked some more after that, hoping the food would move to my colon faster. I wanted to make room in my stomach for more, but that didn't happen. I was unable to try authentic Kansai-style okonomiyaki. I once went to a Japanese restaurant in Manila which served the Hiroshima version. I found it to be better tasting than the Kansai one. So there I was willing to correct my perception of Kansai okonomiyaki, but unfortunately the takoyaki wouldn't budge along my GI tract, so I just went back to my hotel. 

Fig 6. A multitude of restaurants and their animated life size boardsigns, line Dotombori.

Fig 7. Takoyaki Shop 2.

Fig 8. Crab sign- let's me know I'm in the right place.

Fig 9. Kukuru Takoyaki shop, Dotombori, Namba.

A few hours later that night, I was starving again. It was eight-thirty in the evening and I took another walk around Umeda until I reached the next station, Nakatsu. I even saw a river and decided to stop walking further because I might not be able to return to my hotel that night. My phone's battery was running out and I would be lost if it died in the middle of my evening adventure. This time I was brave enough to order in Japanese, so I again ate at a local restaurant and I was up for some tempura. I ordered vegetable tempura and had some tsukemono (pickles) on the side. I rinsed it all off with two cups of tea and called it a day. 

Fig 10. Umeda at night. 

After walking for two hours in the ten degree weather, I returned home and topped the day with a good hot bubble bath. I believe I had exercised every muscle in my frame that day, and deserved a relaxing treat when I got home. I can't remember the last time I was able to explore a neighborhood after dark. My place is just so dangerous to walk in after the clock strikes ten. This is one of the things I look forward to when in a foreign land- shopping and interacting with people during the day, dinner dates and walking the city at night. Locking up yourself in a hotel room just isn't my idea of a vacation. 

Fig 11. Second night's dinner- Vegetable tempura.

OSAKA 1日目

It's been more than 2 months since I returned from the land of the rising sun- that's more than sixty days of procrastinating to write this blog. Well, here goes something...

This city is known to be the second largest in Japan and is all the more famous for its fantabulous cuisine.

From Kansai International Airport, I took a bus (aka airport limousine) to New Hankyu. My hotel (I forgot the name) was not even a kilometer away but I really needed help to get there. I then had to rent a taxi to bring twenty five kilos of luggage and myself, to a hotel just two blocks away, and paid what I think is the flat rate- JPY 650. I stayed in Umeda, which is probably the business hub of Osaka prefecture. My hotel was hands down THE MOST CONVENIENT, LET ALONE COST EFFICIENT  choice anyone would have to make. Its proximity to the mall and train stations was surely the best pick for a short stay in Osaka. 

Fig 1. Watermelon Soda (Burger King, Osaka).

Figure 2. Avocado burger. (Burger King, Osaka)

First place I headed to was Shinsaibashi, which is still part of downtown Osaka. I had originally planned to go church there, but the iPhone I rented did not point me in the right direction. After walking around for an hour, I was pretty sure I was late so I decided to drop by another day. Instead, I ended up eating lunner (this means lunch and dinner in Krantzl's dictionary) at Burger King. I know what you're thinking... BK in Japan, WTF right? But if you were in my place, you too would be a coward to eat in a Japanese restaurant on your first night. I speak very basic Nihongo and I had forgotten how to order; plus I was on my own. Though I didn't mind eating something raw, I did want to eat something familiar like raw fish. But before travelling to Japan, I had made a deal with myself to save all the sushi for when I arrive in Tokyo. The Kansai (west) region would be more appropriate for other foods.

     

Fig 3. Where I got lost on day 1.

Fig 4. Shopping plaza near my hotel.

Figure 5. Green tea pudding- not as delicious as
I dreamed it would be.

Fig 6. A snack stuffed with chestnut paste.

Well, I didn't have much luck in the culinary sense on my first day. In fact, it rained so hard that I wanted to take a break from walking outdoors. I took a train back to Yodobashi Umeda, walked through the endless aisle of a department store of food, and bought a lot of snacks which I planned to eat for a midnight snack later that night. All the walking made me hungry. I walked and walked till I found something both my stomach and wallet could handle. I found myself at seven eleven looking up shelves upon shelves of flavored ice cream, energy drinks, milk tea, and other items I can only find at a convenience store in Japan. My eyes finally settled on a six hundred fifty-worth bento meal. I briskly made my way back to the hotel, while video chatting with my parents and chatting with some of my students who couldn't believe that I was in their country. I realized then that Iphones really ARE handy. Not only do they give you directions and GPS, but also provide you VIRTUAL company if you're travelling alone. :D  It's a good investment to have a smart phone with you when travelling. Thank you Softbank (phone carrier which lent me the phone).

Fig 7. Bento meal from Seven Eleven. 

Fig 8. Diversity of  Lipton beverages at Seven Eleven.